Mastering Sun Protection: Top Tips for Healthy Skin and UV Defence

Of all the products applied to the skin, sun protection is without doubt the most important. A bold statement some may say but before applying all those lotions and creams to reduce wrinkles, we must first ensure we are protecting our skin.

I think it's really important that people fully understand how Ultraviolet Radiation (UV) affects the skin and its role in ageing and skin cancer.

How does Ultraviolet Radiation damage your skin?

UV Rays are light wavelengths emitted by the sun. Two separate waves being UVA and UVB both having different biological effects on the skin.

UVA penetrates more deeply into the dermis, let's look at this ray as causing more ageing processes within the skin, think photo-ageing, pigment disorders and cumulative structural damage.

UVB is the ray which causes erythema and burning, it's absorbed more superficially in the epidermal layers of the skin. This ray of sunshine induces skin cancer by damaging DNA, triggering gene mutations, suppressing the immune system, eventually causing malignant cells to grow.

Understanding what Sun Protection Factor means

When looking along the product laden shelves it's difficult to know which product is going to be right for you but you shouldn't just be thinking about brand and whether it's on offer. What you should be looking to check is whether it provides broad spectrum coverage, is chemical or mineral and does it have a high enough factor to protect my skin tone.

Sun protection factor is given a rating based on the time it takes to induce erythema in the skin when exposed to UVB Rays, a process termed Minimal Erythema Dose (MED). So the SPF factor on the bottle provides a percentage of protection and there really isn't much in it.....

• SPF15 = 93%

• SPF30 = 97%

• SPF50 = 98%

• SPF100 = 99%

You may now be thinking well I am ok with 93% with an SPF15 but this is where it gets technical. Let's look at the length of protection time each factor provides. Now this is personal to each individual skin, depending on your skin colour (fitzpatrick).

If your unprotected erythema/burn time is 10minutes, below shows you how long each factor will protect you for:

• SPF15 = 93% - 10 x 15 = 150 minutes

• SPF30 = 97% - 10 x 30 = 300 minutes

• SPF50 = 98% - 10 x 50 = 500 minutes

The underlying issue with these numbers is that no one applies enough product in the first place, probably nowhere near as much as what's applied in the testing, so this already reduces the protection percentage. No one knows how much or how quickly the product is removed through friction or sweating - again this reduces the protection percentage.

It's also not just about the time element, it's actually about the time and level of exposure. Exposure takes into account location, cloud cover, latitude, season, proximity to reflective surfaces like water, sand, and snow.

Are you applying your SPF correctly?

The general rule is that you apply three finger lengths of product to your face, neck and decollate. approximately one sized shot glass full to your whole body - always apply generously.

Previous studies have recommended you apply 15-30 minutes prior to sun exposure and then reapply every 2-3 hours and after sweating, swimming, towelling etc.

New studies are now recommending that you apply 15-30 minutes prior to sun exposure and then again 15-30minutes after sun exposure begins - further application is necessary after vigorous activity, swimming, towelling and excessive sweating.

It is also worth noting that each time you reapply you are not doubling the protection time stated above, that reapplication is just a "booster" it extends your time a little so you still need to continue reapplying every few hours.

What is the difference between chemical and mineral SPF?

Most sunscreens contain a mixture of both. Chemical ingredients such as avobenzone and octocrylene work by absorbing UV radiation and converting it to heat (hence the name "chemical" reaction) - not suitable for those who get prickly heat, folliculitis or have rosacea.

Mineral sunscreen ingredients Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide reflect and scatter UV radiation whilst also providing some absorption.

The best SPF product is one which you are comfortable wearing.

Is SPF in Makeup and Moisturisers enough?

As easy as that would be and I am the first one to consolidate a routine, you are never going to be able to apply enough of either product to really get the same level of protection from that of a specific SPF.

In conclusion, the best spf product is the one which you are comfortable wearing and provides you with the best level of protection. Broad-spectrum coverage, sufficient application, proper timing, and regular use are key to effective sun protection. When applied correctly, sunscreen is one of the most scientifically proven methods to minimise the risks of skin cancer, photoaging, and pigmentation issues.